The statue of Dovizia, Firenze

I love to let my mind wander into the distant past, trying to picture the way things might have been.

Last week I was invited to visit a show in the beautiful exhibition space of the Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze on via Bufalini.  There I bumped into a heroically-sized statue of a somewhat recognisable woman.  “Hey, I know you!” I thought to myself.


She certainly looked familiar.  I wondered if she was related to one of the four allegorical statues of the seasons occupying the corners of the Ponte Santa Trinita. (Those four statues were done by Pietro Francavilla [Spring], Taddeo Landini [Winter] and Giovanni Caccini [Summer and Autumn] and placed on the bridge in 1608.)

Fortunately, a label attached to the statue revealed the figure and the sculptor: La Dovizia (Abundance) by Giovan Battista Foggini:


Ah ha! I now knew exactly what I was looking at!  My mind zinged back into two places almost simultaneously, first to the camp and later the Forum of Roman Florence. and then to the Renaissance placement of a statue of Abundance by Donatello.

Both of these past moments happened in the space now occupied by the Piazza della Repubblica in Florence. The giant woman I encountered last week on the Via Bufalini was the statue of Abundance that replaced Donatello’s (now lost) figure on the same column, a replacement which occurred in 1721 (according to the label).


The column, still topped by a statue, sits at the exact point where the two Roman roads intersected in ancient Florence, the cardo (now via Roma and via Calimala) and decumanus (now via degli Strozzi, via degli Speziali, and via del Corso).





Now I needed to find out more about Giovanni Battista (Giambattista) Foggini, to satisfy my curiosity.  He was an artist in Florence (1652 – 1725) who became, in 1676, the court sculptor for Cosimo III. He went on to become the Medici’s Architetto Primario e Primo scultore della Casa Serenissima as well as Soprintendente dei Lavori (1687–1725).

Foggini is best known today as the creator of many small bronze statuary figures and groups. In 1687, Foggini acquired the foundry in Borgo Pinti that had once belonged to the sculptor Giambologna. This allowed him to specialise in small bronzes, produced mainly and profitably for export. His adaptation of Pietro Tacca’s Moors was, for example, the basis of the bronze and ceramic reproductions for the connoisseur market well into the 18th century.





One of my grad school professors published an article on the Donatello Abundance (“Donatello’s Lost Dovizia for the Mercato Vecchio: Wealth and Charity as Florentine Civic Virtues by David G. Wilkins).  Here are couple of excerpts from that scholarly publication:

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Here is an image of what Donatello’s lost sculpture might have looked like:   Screenshot 2018-10-15 at 11.08.14

You just never know who or what you will bump into in this fascinating city of Florence.



Fortezza da Basso, Firenze

The Fortezza da basso is a key Florentine monument, but it is almost always overlooked because, let’s face it, it ain’t pretty.  Loving the history of Florence, I jumped at a recent opportunity to tour the inside of the fortress.  I’ll talk about that below.



The fort’s purpose was not to enchant or entertain, as were so many key monuments built from the medieval period moving forward. The fort’s purpose was to protect the city by blocking and intimidating any evil-doers who might be planning to take Florence in a coup of some sort. And this meant both from without and from within the city.


The fort served these functions well, and Florence was never attacked after it was built.   Of course, the fort wasn’t the only reason Florence was left alone.  But the huge benefit of that fact is that the fort is largely intact for us to study and admire.

Today the imposing fort has a much softer, more elegant use; I’ll talk about that later.

In the following picture,  you see one of the fort’s 5 entrances, the Porta Sta. Maria Novella, which is where I entered to begin my guided tour.

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The official name is Fortezza di San Giovanni Battista (Saint John the Baptist, who was/is the patron saint of Florence). The more common name, Fortezza da basso, means in English “the fortress from below,” which indicates that the fort has a counterpart higher up.  And, indeed it does: the Forte di Belvedere (fort with a beautiful view) sits high up on a hill to the south of Florence. You can see the location and relationship of both forts here:

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The fort is a very impressive military construction with tall, thick and strong walls,  dominated by a gloomy, massive tower. The tower here is not like those that are found on other major Florentine buildings. Towers were usually quite tall, and the fort’s tower is relatively short and squat.

The Fortezza appears like a cyclopic building with powerful bastions bristling with turrets, and full of narrow walkways, parapet walks and secret passages. The massive, extensive walls surrounding the fort are occasionally relieved with projecting stone ashlars, some of which are accented with round discs.


It is theorized that these discs might be a reference to the Medici coat-of-arms, with the 5 balls.


The sophisticated military construction of the fort is a splendid example of the celebrated fortresses built by the Sangallo family. Florence’s Fortezza da Basso was built in record time in 1534, after the return to power in Florence of the Medici family after the dramatic seige of 1529-30.

The Fortezza was designed by Antonio da Sangallo the younger, with the help of Pierfranceco da Viterbo, for Alessandro de’ Medici, the Duke of Florence. And, while it might not be the most beautiful structure in Florence, it is the largest historical monument in the city.

220px-Jacopo_Pontormo_056 Duke Alessandro de’ Medici


The Fortress, which was inserted into the 14th-century walls of Florence, was built under the growing threat of turbulent political upheavals. It was one of the very first Italian “citadels” and seems rather to have been built as a protection against the city’s inhabitants than from its external enemies.

bastions of the Fortezza da Basso
View of the bastions of the Fortezza da Basso


Here are some of my pictures from within the walls of the fortress and leading up to the watch tower on the south side of the former military base:



Below are the stairs that lead up to the watch tower:



The next 3 pictures are taken from inside the tower:



And here are the views of Florence as seen from inside the watch tower:



Once again, I was struck by just how small the city really is.  It is so obvious from way up high (not that this tower is that tall); the domes of San Lorenzo and the Duomo seem just a stone’s throw away.

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The guided tour of the tower was an incredible treat, but perhaps even more amazing was the fact that we also got to go under the fortifications of the south wall.  This Florentine fortress has its secrets and its curiosities. The most important ‘mystery’, yet to be verified and fully discovered, is a gallery which allegedly runs along the perimeter.  There is also the tunnel in a state of partial abandonment, which was used by defenders to counter enemy attacks. Legend has it that there is a secret passage from the gallery of Fortezza da Basso that crosses the city underground and leads to the Forte di Belvedere. Who knows, but I find that idea to be ludicrous.

As a part of my guided tour, we got to visit the tunnels below.  This is an amazing fact; almost no one in the general public has seen this area. Here are my photos from our tour down below:


The next 2 pix are looking up from the tunnel to light shafts:


Another interesting curiosity about the fortress has to do with the later Grand Duke, Pietro Leopoldo, who knew about the American scientist, Benjamin Franklin, and his  theories. This duke and Franklin were contemporaries. Franklin’s studies made a huge contribution to the study of meteorology and electricity, and his invention of the lightning rod was noted by the duke. Not surprisingly, the Grand Duke wanted to protect his buildings in Europe, and in particular those with major stores of gunpowder. So he used Franklin’s recommendations and installed lightening rods.

Since 1967, Fortezza da Basso has been used as an exhibition center and, as such, it hosts a large number of Florence trade shows and conferences. The former military base is spread out over about 100,000 square meters, and about half of them are covered.


Nowadays the Fortress is used for all of the most important Florentine exhibitions and fairs (from Pitti Immagine to the International Exchange of Congress Tourism, Florence Gift Mart to Eurocamper, the International Exhibition of Crafts to Prato Expo, etc.).
Built on three floors, the modern pavilion that is usually used for these events was designed by architect Pierluigi Spadolini and inaugurated in 1977. Standing in the center of the great square inside the Fortress, the Pavilion is surrounded by ancient buildings that are gradually being restored: the Theatrino Lorenese, the Palazzo delle Nazioni, the Arsenal. Also, ever since the 1966 flood, the large buildings on the southern side have hosted the restoration Laboratories of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure.


If Florence were on the sea

From a vintage set of postcards showing landmark architecture in Firenze, as if each structure was on a waterfront.  The postcards date to sometime before the postwar period:



Landmarks named include, above, the church of Orsanmichele



Piazza del Duomo



Above, the Palazzo delle Poste, the modern post office building




The Palazzo Pitti



The Duomo, aka, Santa Maria del Fiore




The Piazza della Signoria




Above the Loggia dell’Orcagna (misspelled on the postcard as loggia dell’Orgagna); aka Loggia dei Lanzi



The Piazzale Michelangelo



The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, name changed to Piazza della Repubblica sometime after WWII.

A hymn to Firenze

This lovely, wistful song is a hymn to a Florence that is no longer.  It is sung by Riccardo Marasco and known as Firenze Bottegaia.


A rough translation in English goes like this:

Florence Bottegaia (Riccardo Marasco)

Antique shops,
artisan shops,
shops where you only find things done here.
Silversmiths’ shops
of things today or yesterday
created by the same people who made the city.
Shops where the old ones
they revealed to the boys
secrets inherited from an ancient civilization,
shops of a time that are now no longer ..
I had known her too.

Da Gilli a good coffee ‘between mirrors lights and brass,
the cream in Via Monalda sucked with cialdoni.
The Donnini krapfen,
the famous Dorè.

Emma woman treats, two teas with the ladyfingers
“no thanks tonight I would just like two cream puffs”
in piazza da Revoire there is hot chocolate
but there is no more to cuddle the mandola of Mafaldo.

Florence shop
when I was a child
and already I was proud of being born a Florentine.
Florence shop
what time it is not anymore
you have betrayed those who owe you more.

Capecchiacci disappeared
buttons, strings and laces,
expert in skins and great master in making holes.
He closed Calderai
delicious cold cuts,
caviar mascarpone
the ragù in the volavàn.
Disappeared Bruzzichelli
the palace is also wobbling
for a new shoe you can find yourself in the afterlife.
Where was the Bottegone there is now a bar among many,
I had known you too.
The Corso bookshop sold a little faith,
Balboni in Vigna Nuova churned maddalene.
The old Settepassi is now a Milanese.

The craftsman is evicted,
San Frediano is evicted,
your ills Florence tell me who will evict them?
The most glorious ones are evicted,
history is also evicted.
If it is necessary to evict the old one of su ma ‘.

Florence shop
when you were a child
and you went around proud of being Florentine.
Florence shop
what time it is not anymore
you have betrayed those who owe you more.

Onion fast food,
ties at the old bridge,
where the fontanella pours drugs into the bucket.
Take advantage of the bad
there is a thousand vucumprà
that vendon paccottiglia scattered here and there.
Armani, Valentino
Versace then Trussardi
I’m here to tell us in chorus
“Florentine you were late”.
Florence that was dressing
the spirit and the mind
now he dresses you from the war down.

They are overseas copies of those shops that
they sold originality with genius;
we are the double of the fifth avenue.
Throw everything to the nettle
if one engages in it
it is not necessary then Pegna showed it to us.
Florence shop
for us you were a blazon,
and who knows why you look like a curse.

Florence shop
when I was a child
and already I was proud of being born a Florentine.
Florence shop
on the diamonds of the tu:
if others have betrayed you
I love you even more.

Florence shop
I’m no longer a child
as long as I walk around
I’ll be alone